vfs: protect i_nlink

Prevent direct modification of i_nlink by making it const and adding a
non-const __i_nlink alias.

Signed-off-by: Miklos Szeredi <mszeredi@suse.cz>
Tested-by: Toshiyuki Okajima <toshi.okajima@jp.fujitsu.com>
Signed-off-by: Christoph Hellwig <hch@lst.de>